Licorice Root Extract: One Root, Several Routes to a More Even-Looking Tone

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• 1. What exactly is licorice root extract?
• 2. One root does not mean one active
• 3. Where licorice actually earns its place in skincare
• 4. How it can influence uneven pigmentation
• 5. What does human research actually show?
• 6. What about redness and soothing?
• 7. Why species and extraction method matter
• 8. Does a higher percentage mean more?
• 9. Who may find it useful?
• 10. How to use it
• 11. What can you use it with?
• 12. A barrier-intelligent view
• 13. What it cannot do
• 14. Common myths
• 15. Frequently asked questions
• 16. Scientific References

What exactly is licorice root extract?

Licorice root extract is a botanical material made from roots of plants in the Glycyrrhiza genus. In cosmetic ingredient lists, “Glycyrrhiza Glabra (Licorice) Root Extract” specifically points to G. glabra, while research on “licorice” may also involve G. inflata or G. uralensis. That distinction matters because the roots are chemically complex.

They contain saponins, flavonoids and other phytochemicals rather than one defined active. Glabridin is strongly associated with G. glabra, while licochalcone A is an important constituent of G. inflata. Liquiritin and glycyrrhizin can occur across more than one species.

For skincare, this means “licorice root extract” should be read as a family of possible extract profiles, not as a molecule with one guaranteed mechanism.

One root does not mean one active

The ingredient is interesting precisely because different constituents can do different things. Glabridin and several related flavonoids have been studied for effects on melanogenesis. Liquiritin has small human studies in melasma. Licochalcone A has anti-irritative and anti-inflammatory data. Glycyrrhizin and glycyrrhetinic-acid derivatives are more often discussed for conditioning and soothing roles.

This is also why it is scientifically weak to say “licorice blocks tyrosinase” as if the whole botanical extract were one pure inhibitor. Some constituents can influence tyrosinase; others may work through different routes.

Where licorice actually earns its place in skincare

For a cosmetic formula, the most defensible uses are support for a more even-looking tone and support for skin that is prone to visible irritation. The evidence is strongest when we speak about specific licorice-derived compounds rather than an undefined extract.

Licorice can therefore make sense as a supporting ingredient in pigmentation-focused formulas, especially alongside actives with complementary mechanisms. It can also make sense in formulas designed to minimise the visual consequences of irritation, provided the specific extract and finished formula are well tolerated.

What it is not: a guaranteed replacement for hydroquinone, a treatment for inflammatory skin disease, or a reason to skip sunscreen.

How it can influence uneven pigmentation

Melanin production relies on a chain of signals and enzymes. Tyrosinase is one important enzyme in that process. In cell and animal models, glabridin can reduce tyrosinase activity and melanogenesis-related signalling. Other licorice flavonoids, including glabrene and isoliquiritigenin, have also shown tyrosinase-inhibitory activity in experimental systems.

This gives a biologically plausible reason for using selected licorice extracts in dark-spot formulas. But the mechanism belongs to the tested constituent or tested extract — not automatically to every licorice raw material on the market.

What does human research actually show?

Human evidence exists, but it is not as deep or standardized as marketing often suggests. A small split-face clinical study in 20 women with epidermal melasma reported improvement with a topical liquiritin cream compared with vehicle after four weeks. Other small studies have also explored liquiritin or licorice-extract formulations for melasma, but methods, concentrations and formulation details vary.

A 2022 systematic review of self-applied topical interventions for melasma found that evidence quality across many cosmetic and herbal approaches was heterogeneous, and only a small number of comparisons could be pooled.

That is the right context for licorice: promising, but not a reason to speak as if every licorice serum has high-certainty clinical evidence.

For Fairywren, the safest conclusion is: licorice-derived compounds have credible mechanistic data and some human support, but finished-product performance still needs to be demonstrated for the actual formulation.

What about redness and soothing?

Licochalcone A is one of the better studied licorice-derived anti-irritative compounds. In randomized vehicle-controlled human models, cosmetic formulations containing licochalcone A reduced shaving- and UV-induced erythema compared with vehicle.

Another eight-week study in people with mild to moderate rosacea reported improvement in redness with a skincare regimen containing licochalcone A plus 4-t-butylcyclohexanol. That study supports the usefulness of the complete regimen, but it does not isolate licochalcone A as the only active responsible for the result.

There is another important nuance: licochalcone A is particularly associated with G. inflata. If a product lists G. glabra root extract, it should not automatically borrow every licochalcone A claim unless the raw material is actually standardized for it.

Why species and extraction method matter

Botanical extracts are not chemically fixed in the way niacinamide or tranexamic acid are. Plant species, growing conditions, root processing, extraction solvent, extract ratio and carrier can all change the final profile.

A water-rich extract may emphasise a different set of molecules from a more lipophilic extract. A supplier may standardize to glycyrrhizin, glabridin or another marker — or may not disclose a meaningful marker at all.

Two products can therefore both say “Glycyrrhiza Glabra Root Extract” while delivering different amounts of the compounds consumers actually care about.

This is why the most useful supplier questions are:

• Which species?
• Which plant part?
• Which extraction method?
• What is the extract ratio?
• Is the raw material standardized?
• What marker compound is guaranteed?

Does a higher percentage mean more?

Not necessarily. A percentage of whole botanical extract is not the same thing as the percentage of an active constituent.

A formula with “2% licorice extract” might contain a concentrated dry extract, or it might contain a diluted extract supplied in water or glycerin. Without the supplier specification, the number alone can be misleading.

This makes direct percentage comparisons between brands weak. For licorice, standardisation and formula context are usually more informative than chasing the highest number.

Who may find it useful?

Licorice root extract is most relevant to people concerned with uneven-looking tone, post-blemish marks or skin that becomes visibly red after irritation.

It can suit dry, oily or combination skin because the extract itself does not define the texture of the finished product.

Sensitive skin may tolerate a well-designed licorice formula, especially when the formula avoids unnecessary irritants. But “plant-derived” does not mean irritation-proof. The complete product, preservative system, solvent and other actives still matter.

How to use it

Licorice root extract is commonly used in leave-on serums, moisturizers and pigmentation-focused formulas. It can generally fit into either a morning or evening routine, depending on the complete product.

For uneven tone, consistent sunscreen use matters more than adding another brightening ingredient. Without daily UV and visible-light protection, new pigmentation can continue to form while you are trying to fade existing marks.

If the formula also contains stronger actives — retinoids, exfoliating acids, azelaic acid or multiple pigment-targeting agents — introduce it according to the tolerability of the whole formula rather than the licorice extract alone.

What can you use it with?

Licorice root extract has no well-established “never mix” list. In practice, it is often paired with niacinamide, tranexamic acid, vitamin C derivatives, azelaic acid, retinoids, humectants and barrier-supporting lipids.

The useful question is not whether licorice is chemically “compatible” with a popular active in the abstract. It is whether the total routine creates unnecessary irritation.

A calm routine is especially important when the goal is post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation, because repeated irritation can work against an even-looking tone.

A barrier-intelligent view

Licorice root extract is not a ceramide and should not automatically be called a “barrier-repair ingredient.”

Its relevance to a barrier-intelligent routine is more indirect: selected licorice-derived compounds can support a calmer-looking skin environment, and a well-tolerated formula can help avoid the cycle of irritation that often accompanies aggressive pigmentation routines.

If a finished product claims to repair the barrier, that claim should come from the full formula and appropriate testing — not from the presence of licorice alone.

What it cannot do

• Licorice root extract cannot guarantee the same result as a prescription or dermatologist-directed melasma treatment.
• It cannot erase pigmentation permanently.
• It cannot compensate for inconsistent sunscreen.
• It cannot be assumed to contain a clinically meaningful amount of glabridin simply because “licorice root extract” appears on the label.
• Evidence for an isolated constituent should not be silently converted into evidence for every finished product containing a licorice extract.

Common myths

Frequently asked questions

Is licorice root extract the same as glabridin?

No. Glabridin is one licorice-derived compound. A root extract can contain many compounds, and the glabridin level depends on the species and extraction method.

Is licorice root extract good for dark spots?

It can be a useful supporting ingredient. Licorice-derived compounds have mechanistic evidence for pigmentation pathways, and small human studies of liquiritin report improvement in melasma. Evidence for an undefined extract is less standardized.

How long does it take to work?

Pigmentation changes are usually measured over weeks, not days. The exact timeline depends on the formula, the type of pigmentation, sunscreen use and the rest of the routine.

Can sensitive skin use licorice root extract?

Often yes in a well-formulated product, but tolerance is individual. Plant-derived does not mean irritation-proof, so introduce new formulas cautiously if your skin is reactive.

Can I use it with niacinamide or tranexamic acid?

Usually yes. There is no established incompatibility. The bigger issue is overall routine tolerance and avoiding unnecessary irritation.

Can I use it with vitamin C or retinoids?

Often yes, provided the total routine is tolerated. If a retinoid or acidic vitamin C formula already irritates your skin, adding multiple actives at once is not useful.

Does licorice exfoliate the skin?

Not in the way AHAs or BHAs do. Its pigmentation story is mainly linked to bioactive compounds and signalling pathways rather than surface exfoliation.

Does licorice root extract replace sunscreen?

No. Sunscreen remains essential when managing uneven pigmentation or post-blemish marks.

Is 2% licorice root extract better than 1%?

You cannot answer that from the percentage alone. A standardized concentrated extract and a diluted carrier-based extract can have very different active content.